Auteur: un Sénégalais
Date: 24-03-05 10:39 >>> Répondre à ce message
Ici un article d´un expatrié américain qui a vécu à Lomé. Cet article est emblematique pour les Américain. Il regrette le manque d´infrastructure, de centres commerciaux,...simplement de TOUT. Il y a bcp d´autres articles sur le site: http://www.talesmag.com/rprweb/the_rprs/africa/togo.shtml
Prenez le temps de lire cet article-là . Ils traitent les africains comme des "idiots." Ca m´exaspère énormement. Ils prennent l´Amérique comme point de reference pour tout. En plus, cet américain se moque de Francais au Togo en plus. JE SUIS TRES EN COLERE!!!!!!! Je vais chercher un article sur notre pays aussi.
Written on March 2005
(The contributor is affiliated with the U.S. Embassy and has lived in Lome for a year.)
Travel time and best routes to this city from Europe or the US (check flight schedules with Expedia) :
Air France offers a 3-day-a-week flight into Lome from Paris. t is a six-hour flight to Paris Charles de Gaulle, possibly the worst organized and most unfriendly airport in the Western world. Air France, the most rude and arrogant airline in the Western world, offer the only scheduled flights from Togo. Unless you want to lose your luggage with $2000 of irreplaceable shopping, as happened to us, go to Ghana, three to four hours away by car, and take the British Airways flight to London. You will regret the hassle less than the loss of your stuff. After all, Air France lose 10-20 bags every flight. I know; I went to the airport for months looking for mine. Flights from the US will use this also. You can also fly into Accra, Ghana, via Heathrow and then drive to Lome in three more hours.
Pollution index (good, moderate, unhealthy, or very unhealthy):
Unhealthy. You get used to the generic smell and taste of Lome. But the human waste aromas can linger at certain times of the day; especially on the beach. Beaches are synonymous with sewage treatment facilities here.
Security concerns:
Well, up until a month ago: none. However, the president recently died, and the country has gone through an old-fashioned African coup d'etat; so things aren't as safe as they once were. It's pretty safe for Americans; having armed soldiers standing all over the place with AK-47s and .50 caliber machine guns lends to a feeling of safety. The training that said armed men receive may not be so much, but you learn to not think about that.
Housing (typical types, locations, commute time):
Anywhere from straw huts to mansions. US Embassy staff live in very nice houses in two main parts of town for which I won't try to spell the names. Commute times can vary, but a 10-mile drive can often take 30 minutes during rush hour. It helps to understand the "Rules of the Road": There are no driver's licenses. Vehicle inspections are a way to get money from expats and rich people. For every car there are 20 mopeds, and everyone drives on their half of the road (their half being the middle half). Once you accept that you own the whole road and everyone else needs to get out of your way, you'll do fine driving here.
International schools (and your own experience with them):
The British School of Lome, the American School, and the International School. The British School is widely considered the best of the three.
Preschool/daycare available (with comments about your experience):
I don't believe there is a preschool. There are domestics who can take care of children. I also do not believe that there are any daycare facilities. Locals usually just let their children run all over the street.
Is this a good city for families/singles/couples?
Best for couples, I'd guess. They would definitely have time to get to know each other. Families may be next; there is plenty of time to spend on raising the kids. Singles… not so good. Social life can be… "adventurous" at best.
Is it a good city for gay or lesbian expats?
Togolese don't understand the concept of homosexuality. It can make for amusing conversations, though.
Are there problems with racial, religious or gender prejudices?
Women are sexually discriminated against, but it happens less with the non-Togolese. The country has Muslim and Christian populations, but there does not seem to be a rift between them. Racial discrimination happens mostly backwards, meaning that non-Togolese charge non-blacks higher rates for everything, assuming that all non-blacks are rich or tourists. But there isn't a racial hatred per se.
What difficulties would someone with physical disabilities have living in this city?
Lome has no "American's with Disabilities Act", or anything even close to it. A disabled person would be on their own.
Interesting/fun things to do in the area: See how many marriage proposals you can get during an evening at the bars. Count the number of beggars between work and home. See how many blocks you can drive before swearing at someone. Oh, there's a nice beach, and visiting a village can be fun, too. There are also some nice waterfalls and hills up north. Mostly, though, fun comes from amusing yourself however you can.
What fast food and decent restaurants are available? Cost?
Well, there's Al Donald's. It's like McDonald's, but without the good food or fast service or the milkshakes. That's as close as it gets.
What is the availability (and the relative cost) of groceries and household supplies?
There are about three main store-style markets used by expats, but their selections are limited and their prices are high. There are countless open markets for fruits and vegetables, which are great as long as you bleach everything or don't mind having amoebas (the consumption of said amoebas being great for weight-loss). Fresh fish can also be bought on the street, and they are usually good to eat. Burnt-fish-boomerangs are also available and popular. Not sure just who it is they are popular with, but everyone is selling them.
What comments can you make about using credit cards and ATMs?
I only know of one ATM in the country, and I don't use it. Only use credit cards at the really big hotels, of which there are three; even then beware.
What type of automobile is suitable to bring (or not to bring) because of rugged terrain, lack of parts and service, local restrictions, carjackings, etc?
Anything 4WD. Bring extra air filters. Toyotas, Jeeps, BMWs, and a bunch of French model vehicles are best, as there are local dealers for those brands. For anything else you need to bring your own parts. There is a good garage where the owner is willing to read a manual to figure out how to fix your car. There is no unleaded gasoline available.
What is the best way to make phone calls back home?
Use email; calls are expensive. It's best to have home call you.
Do you have any recommendations regarding cell phones?
Yeah, get one. Nokias are popular here. Text messaging is huge among the expat community.
Items you would ship if you could do it again: More toilet paper and air filters. TP here can get to be a bit chaffing.
Availability and cost of domestic help:
One hundred US dollars a month can get a good domestic who will work 5-6 days a week for 8-9 hours a day. Be sure to shop around though. Once domestics have worked for one expat, they have much higher pay expectations for following expats. They will take you for as much a month as they can. Also, while many are honest, like anywhere there are domestics who will skim as much as they can off the top: such as appropriating change from pants pockets, or change from shopping, or allowing themselves to be overcharged and splitting the difference with the retailer.
How much of the local language do you need to know for daily living?
Know how to order food. French is the primary language, but many people know enough English to get by. A small amount of French is enough to survive.
English-language religious services available? Denominations?
None that I know of. But - man, are they happy when an English-speaking American shows up. They'll get the conga lines a-going for you. Really.
English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
This is a French colony. English items come from Ghana, which is conveniently located immediately to the left of Lome. The border is literally at the edge of town.
Internet access cost and quality: Poor; dial-up is the only cost-effective Internet available.
Size of expat community:
Small. Lome was once a great place, with hoards of expats, a Hash and bustling social life. Those days, however, are over. There are some long-term foreign residents, mostly French. Call me old fashioned, but I don't find the French a barrel of laughs. The other long-timers are Lebanese and Korean, and there is a large community of them. The true expats are an assortment of Scandinavians, some Brits, some Americans, and other mixed nationalities.
Morale among expats:
It was pretty good until the recent coup.
Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
None whatsoever. Africans respect animals less than children and cannot understand why we keep pets. At any opportunity they get, they will mistreat a dog. Beware of disgruntled employees taking revenge by poisoning your dog. We have been threatened with that treatment, though I am happy to report that our pooch is still in good health.
Are there decent job opportunities for expats on the local economy?
What local economy? It's a very 'what you can make of it' type of thing. People can find jobs if they look hard enough. Don't expect to come here and work on the economy for 100,000 USD / year, though.
Entertaining/social life:
There are a couple of dance clubs or bars where you can dance to the same music for a year or two. Also lots of inside bars. Literally hundreds of street bars. Actually, drinking pretty much is the social life.
Dress code at work and in public: For the Embassy, business attire is appropriate. For everyone else, whatever is the brightest and tackiest thing you can find seems appropriate.
Any health concerns? What is the quality of medical care available?
There are so many ways to spend your time throwing up in Lome that it boggles the mind. Street food is like Russian roulette with an automatic. Medical care on the economy is questionable at best. Try to avoid it.
You can leave behind your: nose, if possible; and your aversion to public urination.
But don't forget your: sense of humor.
Weather patterns?
There are two seasons: wet and dry. Both seasons are hot; really hot. Not desert hot, though; just 'wish-you-were-in-A/C' hot.
Can you save money?
I probably could if I could tear myself away from Amazon.com.
What can you spend it on? Locally: beer and food.
Knowing what you now know, would you still go there?
Yeah, I can say I've been in a country with a coup and a revolution. How much fun is that?
Recommended fiction related to this city: Dante's Inferno.
Recommended nonfiction related to this city: Lonely Planet.
Any other comments:
Really, keep your sense of humor and you'll be fine.
PS: JE SUIS SANS UN MOT! ET J´ATTENDS VOS REPONSES!
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